Tuesday, June 3, 2008

The immaculate fit



This year, I have been forced to wear dress shirts on a regular basis for the first time. In undergrad, there is only one standard uniform: the dirty hoodie, unironed t-shirt, and grease-stained jeans. As I transition into professional life, I now find myself buying fewer hoodies and jeans and more dress shirts and dress trousers. I've found that not all dress shirts are created equal. In fact, a size 39 for one shirt and another by the same manufacturer may have a completely different fit. There's no consistency amongst the couturiers, or whatever you call them. I'm no sartorialist, but there are certain considerations that are paramount for picking the right dress shirt, and rules every man should go by.

1. Fit - Fit is the most important consideration. You never buy a dress shirt before trying it on because a 40 from one manufacturer is not the same as a 40 from another. Similarly, I've found that slim fit doesn't mean that it fits your definition of slim. Personally, I prefer slimmer fits and dislike blousy shirts. I have broad shoulders and a relatively slim waist so naturally a slim-fitting, almost tapered, shirt looks best on me. I HATE shirts that balloon out after you tuck them in; manufacturers should exercise discretion with the amount of fabric they use, not all American men are overweight.

2. Collars - I think the type of collars one chooses depends on the size of your neck. I have a pretty thick, short neck and I'm not that tall. Thus, I like wearing big, pointed collars that cover up my neck a little. I personally don't like the button-down collars; it just seems extraneous to me.

3. Cuffs - I like to mix it up with the cuffs. French cuffs are a bit dandyish, but they certainly have a time and place. At weddings and more formal occasions, nothing looks better than some french cuffs with nice cuff links. Cuff links, other than a tie, are the only opportunity for a guy to customize how he looks in a formal setting. It adds a personal touch, in my view. Otherwise, barrel cuffs should be the default option for most guys and fit close to the hand and not droop over.

4. Color and patterns - There are three standard colors a guy should have: white, light blue, and grey. One other color of your choosing should be added as well. My personal, fourth choice is lavender (not pink) because it's a subtle, yet unconventional, color. I think solid, unembellished colors are best; stripes can be overwhelming.

Those are just some fast, hard rules I live by and as I become more accustomed to wearing formal shirts on a regular basis, I'll find more rules "tailor-made" to myself.

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